My Last Day in Rome

Out of the hotel and en route to Campo de' Fiori by 9:30 a.m.. I have already established a little bit of a routine, always stopping for a morning cappuccino at any little "bar" that seems interesting along the way. Today it was an older gentleman's little shop and I sat at a tiny table outside.

Past Piazza Venezia and through the Jewish Ghetto, there sat Campo De' Fiori. In the center of the square is a statute of Giordano Bruno who was considered to be an intellectual heretic and was burned in this spot in 1600. Campo De' Fiori is a busy morning produce market and often is the place for political demonstrations. This morning there was no demonstration, just the smell of fresh fruit and excited shoppers. Walking through the peddlers I paused to decide my next move. The Pantheon.

Like Campo De' Fiori, the Pantheon is on the western side of Rome's city center, slightly southwest of the Trevi Fountain and even further south from the Spanish steps.

I was starving this morning and decided that I would need to eat prior to my day's large meal. So along the way I stopped a little sandwich shop. You will find these throughout the city and they are labeled on the outside in Italian as being "self-service." I believe what this means is that it is cafeteria style. It does not mean that you grab your own food. Let me pause to further explain what I mean by "cafeteria-style." The quality of the food is much better than any cafeteria I have ever been to and does not constitute sub-par or stale food. Behind the glass there are sandwiches, pizza, salads, and then deli meats and cheeses. I grabbed a drink from the refrigerator and approached the counter. The girl spoke a bit of English and I pointed at one of the very long sandwiches and asked for a piece. She said "about this big?" and begin cutting off a huge hunk. Yum! Then what she did was place the sandwich on a scale. For eight euro I got a huge sandwich and a drink. Seems maybe a bit expensive right? Well let me tell you something about this sandwich. Of all of the food that I have yet to eat here in Italy, this sandwich was perhaps the best thing. It consisted of only three ingredients: what we consider to be focaccia bread, prosciutto, and fresh mozzarella. That was it. When I took my first bite, I asked myself why I had not gotten one of these every day. My God. Better than any pizza I have ever eaten. What a simple, fresh, wonderful thing that sandwich was. I ate as I walked.

Through the winding cobblestone streets I went. Suddenly I heard some water from a fountain and I turned a corner and there I was standing in front of the Pantheon. I walked over to the fountain, not wanting to stop eating to start taking photos and I sat down. Unbelievable. In just a short distance I had walked from a famed open air market to one of the greatest archaeological sites in the world. Awe-struck, again. The really interesting thing is that there the Pantheon sits, in the middle of a village square. People go about their business, eat, go to work, and there's the Pantheon.

The Pantheon. It was built as a Roman temple dedicated to all of the gods (Pan- all and Theos- the gods). The original temple was built in 27 B.C. by Augustus' son-in-law, Marcus Agrippa. However, the original structure was destroyed by a couple of fires and it was completely rebuilt around 120 A.D. by the emperor Hadrian. Rumor has it that the emperor was an amateur architect and that he helped design the structure. Here is the interesting part. While the Pantheon seems pretty typical from its exterior you have to stop and think for a moment. This is perhaps one of the most influential buildings in art history. Not only was its dome the model for the Florence cathedral dome which launched the freaking Renaissance, and for Michaelangelo's dome at St. Peter's, the Capital Building in Washington D.C. is modeled after the Pantheon. 

As I toured around the Pantheon there was actually a local church's mass going on inside. The smell of the burning incense added to the ambiance of my tour.

From the Pantheon, I headed north to the Trevi Fountain. I threw three more coins into the fountain so that my return-trip is definitely confirmed (Just in case something went wrong with the other coins I had thrown in).

From there I headed even further north to see the Spanish Steps one more time, and to do a little more window shopping at all of the designer stores.

Tonight, I will eat my last Roman meal until I return. What a trip it has been. I hope that all of you come here one day.

My final words of Roman travel advice:  Come here in the spring- it would be too hot in the summer. Wear comfortable walking shoes- my choice, mocassins, but I am a bit of a hippie. Stay at a hotel near the Trevi Fountain as this is about as centrally located as you can be- I did not do this, but it did not stop me from seeing nearly everything. Spend a lot of your time immersing yourself in the local neighborhoods and not eating at the touristy places. Plan to spend at least two hours seated for each meal. Bring lots of cash as most places do not accept credit card. Order the house wines, it is extremely inexpensive and better than any fine wine you would order in the U.S.. Bring lots of batteries for your camera. Bring your husband, boyfriend or lover- it is Rome and there are plenty of romantic spots. The next time I am here, I will not be alone, this time though- Rome was a place of self-discovery. And finally, but not least importantly, bring a suitcase large enough to hold all of your purchases on the way home- I did not do this and now need to spend the next couple of hours trying to figure out how to defy physics to bring everything home with me.

"Ci se vede" to each of you and to Rome!

You Want 45 But I Only Have 15

I had a late start today, did not walk out the front door of my hotel until 10:30 a.m.. Unlike the other days, I did not have too much of a plan today other than to tour the Colosseum and Forum. With a Roma Pass, which you purchase for 25 Euro, you get free access to your first two archeological sites or museums. Since I had paid ahead for the Borghese Gallery, I could still take advantage of my first two free entrance fees with the Pass. I knew that along the way I needed to stop for a cappuccino. This morning felt different than the others had, I didn't have a map in hand as I walked. While I did have my trusted friend in my purse, I didn't feel that I needed it out.

There are not a whole lot of restaurants surrounding the Colosseum so I stopped at the place I had eaten at when I had first arrived, "La Biga" for a cappuccino. It was overpriced- 4 Euro- but the view could not be beat. Now down the steps to the Colosseum. The lines were massive. I circled the perimeter of the beast took about as many pictures as I could stand and decided that since it was about 11:30 already, I felt comfortable skipping the formal tour. Beside the Colosseum is the Forum. Again, much of it is viewable from outside the gates, and to enter, you must purchase your dual ticket from the Colosseum, I made a decision to pass this up, and I don't even feel slightly guilty about doing so.


I formulated my next move in my head: walk over to eastern Rome and see Campo de Fiori, the famed open air market. A great part of my journey in that direction imitated my walk to Vatican City yesterday. Along the way I took a wrong turn and realized I was at the bank of the Tiber and I was facing a small bridge over the water. I sat myself down on a rock to look at the map and realized that I was right outside of Trastevere. A couple quick thoughts later, I was crossing the bridge.


Trastevere is the neighborhood across the Tiber River from downtown Rome. New York's answer to Trastevere is Greenwich Village. Its name literally means "across the Tiber."  It is considered a Bohemian neighborhood and used to be populated by the working-class. Now it has a reputation of being one of the must vibrant restaurant and nightlife packed zones in the city.


While I had listed Trastevere as one of the places I wanted to see, I was not sure if I was going to make it there because of its distance from everything else. Well, there I was. The Trastevere neighborhood seems to have maintained the Roman medieval character better than some other places in the City. It was about 12:00 p.m. when I arrived and I was a woman with a mission: find where I am going to eat. I pulled out a travel book to see what its recommendations were and did find the restaurant that it had suggested but I did not feel all that interested. I backtracked a bit and found myself in the Piazza de Santa Maria in Trastevere. As with most of the Piazzas, in the center sits a large fountain. The area is named for Santa Maria church, Rome's oldest church which was dedicated to the Virgin Mary. It was founded in 337 A.D. on the site where a miraculous fountain of oil apparently spouted on the day of Christ's birth.

The Piazza is filled with about four or five restaurants, each one I checked out, and ended up approaching a waiter at "Galeassi."  By the time I sat down it was about 12:15 p.m.. The Piazza was filled with nuns walking around, puppies running without leashes, and people sitting with their backs resting against the fountain with gelattos in hand. I began to have doubts about my restaurant choice when I realized that both my chair and table were rocking on the unlevel cobblestone. No sooner did I stand up to adjust my chair did a waiter run over and both were fixed.

An entire bottle of house white wine was only 8 euro. The sun came out and it began to get a bit warm. I ordered three dishes: appetizer- Fiori di zucca fritti (fried zucchini blossoms filled with mozzarella and anchovies), first course- Rigatoni all'amatriciana (rigatoni with a red gravy and pancetta), and second course- Saltimbocca alla romana (thinly sliced veal layered with prosciutto and sage, then lightly fried).

The fried zucchini was incredible and as I ate, I thought- "I can't believe I only have one day left when I am only beginning to discover this place." Alongside my fried zucchini were tiny fried balls. Upon biting into one I discovered a green olive stuffed with sausage. Amazing. Dear God, I hope that I have died and am now in heaven. I did see St. Peter yesterday. I realized about two olives in that I better slow down and concentrate on the wine for a little bit since I have a horribly small appetite all of a sudden.

After getting through about 1/3 of my bottle of wine I realized that ordering an entire bottle of wine for myself was a bit gluttonous- well I was only about a mile from the Vatican, if I felt that I bad about it I could head over for a confession I suppose. I also realized that all of this fried food is going to make my skin breakout. Oh well, if I become hideously obese and pock marked I trust that one of you will tell me.

Let's pause for a moment to discuss Roman fashion. I was pleasantly surprised to find that my choice to wear a short black trench coat with brightly colored scarves is quite in vogue. In addition to the trench coat, women sport flat black leather walking shoes. And of course, any respectable woman that I saw carried a designer bag.

Back to the food. First course- the rigatoni- my favorite pasta. Let's see how they do it in Italy. I asked my waiter for cheese a few minutes earlier and then I heard from the opposite side of the outdoor seating "Formage para la bella!!" I think that's me he is talking about. I'll just drink while I wait. Out comes the cheese and I bite into the rigatoni. Cooked perfectly aldente. All is right in the world. The red sauce is a bit spicy with just the right saltiness.

Come on Italy, give me three months here and I will have the language down. I am a quick learner, highly motivated and will be an asset to your country. I feel like I am on an interview.

As I sat and ate, I appreciated that my trip was taking place in March and not in the middle of the summer, it was really getting warm under the sun! Gelatto will be in order for today. I looked around and noticed that the Piazza was now completely filled with beautiful wonderful people. When I have a kid, I am bringing him or her here so that their life can be enriched.

There is very little turnover in restaurants for each meal because people stay for so long. I have no idea how the chef possibly times the dishes when I am still on my first course after an hour and a half. At long last, I could eat no more pasta. On to the veal. I normally do not eat baby calf- I made an exception today. It was very good but I was also very full.

During my meal two gentlemen played music on an accordion and a bass. I took their photo as they played so I thought to myself that I will surely be sending them a couple euro momentarily. I have to laugh thinking of my mother complaining that my grandma wanted her to learn to play the accordion- maybe to serenade diners in a piazza square? Not even five minutes after their photo was taken, the accordion player was standing in front of me with his hat. Of course you can have some money.

Finishing the meal off with an espresso, it was time for me to head back for a siesta.

Having spent a heck of a lot of euros on lunch, I was very conscious of the fact that I only had 15 euro left in my bag in case I became lazy and needed to take a taxi back to the hotel. As I walked across the bridge leaving Trastevere I was greeted by a man with many beautiful purses lying on the ground. They were purses with no labels but genuine Italian leather for sure, I smelled them. He asked which one I liked. I pointed to the yellow one. He said "you can have this for only 45 euro." Why is it that only the street vendors know how to speak English? I knew at that moment that I was getting this bag and I was getting it for only 15 euro. I said- "I don't have 45 euro." "How much then, 30 euro?" " I don't have 30 euro." "25 euro, it is a beautiful bag, will look lovely on you." "I don't have 25 euro." "How much do you have?" "I have 15 euro." "That is very cheap for this bag." "It is all I have." He asked me to take out the money. I took it out and showed him that the 15 euro was all I had in my purse. "Fine, 15 euro."

Tonight I am going to the Spanish Steps and Trevi Fountain to see them lit up at night.

From One City State to the Ghetto

My plan for the day was to walk to Vatican City to see St. Peter's Basilica and the Vatican Museum/ Sistene Chapel and then to the Jewish Ghetto to eat lunch at Sora Margherita, the famed Jewish restaurant with no sign hidden in the midst of Rome's Jewish Ghetto.

I walked out of my hotel by 8:30 a.m.. Vatican City is no close walk. Even with my fast pace, it took me an hour and a half to arrive. That included a stop at Carla's Ristorante for a quick cappuccino. What a treat for the senses. Like my espresso yesterday, I did not use sugar today either. It gave me the pick-me-up that I needed and I continued on my way. Geographically, my hotel is located near the Roman Metro Terminal which is on the east side of the City center. Vatican City is literally on the opposite western side. Crossing the street at one of the Piazzas was my biggest challenge as there were no lights, but I figured it out and have begun to lead the crowds across the busy avenues.

To get to Vatican City you must cross a bridge across the Tiber (or Tevere) River. The Vatican City is technically its own city-state. Rome actually houses Italy's embassy to the Vatican. So technically, I walked from one city to an entirely different city-state today.

I have to admit, despite the fact that I am not Catholic, I had very high expectations for Vatican City. I was surprised that the avenue approaching St. Peter's Square was so commercial. It resembled what I would imagine the red carpet at the Oscars must look like to those going in to accept their awards. Along the way there were souvenir shops with gawdy gold statutes and plates, and in the center of the Avenue were bronze statutes depicting the stories of Jesus' life. As I came closer, I saw the grandeur of the Square, surrounded by columns and filled with awe-struck followers. That is when I felt the goosebumps. To be honest, my impression was not so grand because of the beauty of the Square but I think merely because I grasped the fact that there I was, standing in this place, this place that millions believe to be Holy.

The line, oh the line. It wrapped almost entirely around the "Square," which is actually ovular. This was just to get into St. Peter's Basillica. No charge. You pay to go up to the dome, which I did not do. So after an hour and a half walk, I had finally arrived, only to stand in line. I was struck by the number of clergy standing in line. Two gentlemen behind me seemed to think that because they wore the holy cloak they could budge in line. Not happening. I would compare this to me trying to cut in line to see the Supreme Court ahead of all the other loyal Americans.

The line moved quickly as there is no charge to see St. Peter's Basilica, they merely send you through a metal detector and frisk you. They don't want anything crazy going on in the Pope's church. So, I think I stood in line for probably about 30 minutes before I myself was frisked and entered the Basilica. Again, I got goosebumps. Just its size is incredible. Michelangelo's alter over where St. Peter is said to be buried was incredible. People stand in line in front of St. Peter's statute to kiss his toe. I did not do that.

After touring the Basilica, it was time to exit the City and go around its walls to enter the Vatican Museum. The Vatican Museum costs 15 Euros and includes the Sistene Chapel. While you can take pictures in the Museum with no flash, photos are strictly prohibited in the Chapel. The walk from the Basilica to the Museum is about 10 minutes. The line to the Museum forms along the City Wall. I waited in line to enter the Museum for a little over an hour. As you stand in line there are people that walk along trying to entice you to join the English/ French/ Spanish speaking tour which will be starting momentarily and will allow you to leave the line and enter immediately. While I was almost tempted,  I knew that my attention deficit would get the best of me on any guided tour.

A long wait later, I was finally entering the Museum out of the hot sun. Again, only to enter through another metal detector and to be frisked. As many of you know, the Catholic Church is extremely wealthy, the largest real estate holder in the world. So of course, its collection of artwork was also fantastic. At this point though, it was about 11:30 a.m. and I knew that I was going to take a direct route through the Museum to the Sistene so that I could make my way back to Romedom for lunch. Entrance to the Museum is 15 Euros.

Touring the the Museum, I was of course quite impressed and taken aback by the vastness of the collection. The Museum is huge and probably the most extensive that I will ever see, statutes and paintings alike.

Finally, I made it to the Sistene Chapel. This was one of my most sought after destinations on my entire trip to Rome. Walking into the Chapel was incredible. Not only did it take my breath away and give me goosebumps but I did truly shed a couple of tears. To stand underneath one of the greatest artworks that the world has ever seen and to know that Michelangelo hung from the ceiling and constructed scaffolding to create such a masterpiece, it is a once in a lifetime sort of thing. I specifically took a deep breath when I entered because I very clearly remember the statement made by Robin Williams in "Good Will Hunting" where he explains to Will that although he may be an expert on Michelangelo's works, he has never experienced the smell of the Sistene Chapel. I stayed and gazed for quite a while. I have waited a long time to see that place, and it was worth it.

Leaving the Vatican Museum is almost more ridiculous than it is to enter. It was a winding maze, including a huge spiral staircase. From there I took my route back to the bridge over the Tiber and then through the winding streets to the Jewish Ghetto.

The Jewish Ghetto: Beginning in about the eighth century, anti-Semitism began increasing throughout Europe. Then, in 1492, all of Spain's Jews were either baptized or expelled, with similar acts taking place throughout Europe. As a result, Rome's Jewish population swelled with refugees and by the 1500s, the Catholic Counter-Reformation turned its attention to anything deemed non-Catholic, including Judaism. All of Rome's Jews were forcibly moved by Pope Paul IV in 1555 to the flood zone inside of the Tiber River, creating a ghetto of 4,000 Jews. They lived there behind walls and with a curfew. From there, the Jews continued to be discriminated against, as I am sure, most of you know.

I went to the neighborhood specifically looking for one restaurant: Sora Margherita. It has no sign, but I did have an address down the winding streets from the travel books that I have read. After a few wrong turns and walks down strange alleys, I found the place. I walked in and held up one finger. I was turned away. The man at the register said: "un? we full- you look? no come in." I said "Grazie" turned around and walked out. It looked like a hole in the wall anyway. AND, I plan to write Rick Steves to let him know that his famed restaurant is not single-diner friendly.

Not to be discouraged, I knew I could find another place to eat. It was only about 1:15 p.m.. Just around a couple of corners and there I was at "Ristorante Il Portico." What a wonderful place. The tables are set up in the middle of the cobblestone street of the neighborhood and the food was incredible. I sat there for about two hours, enjoying my fried artichoke, gnocchi pommodore, and lamb. As I sat there, a woman begging came to me and said "Senora??????" Serenading me as I ate was a violinist walking the streets. After about an hour and me taking his photograph, he finally came over to me and said: "Ahhh, Bella????" and held out a cup. Of course I gave him money, his photo is worth something, right?

Eating the gnocchi was like eating little clouds of air. I ate every last one. I just sat back and took it all in. I said to myself a few times: "I am in *u%cking Italy." I did think to myself that I wished I hadn't tipped the violinist so soon because as soon as I had, he had left. Typical man, only out for one thing. There continued to be music playing in the background from a band playing around the corner. I realized to myself that I would not be able to succeed in America's terms in Rome. I would just exist, maybe get a job at a restaurant. In America, our success is measured by the jobs we keep, the houses we own, and the cars we drive. I believe that my American success has no meaning here in Italy. In a matter of thirty minutes, I had gone from the Capital of Christendom to the heart of Europe's Jewish population. What an experience.

After I finished my plate of gnocchi and the waiter had taken my plate, he came over to me and asked: "Excuse me, why you leave artichoke on your first plate? It not good?"  At first I thought he was just joking, making fun of my devouring of the entire pasta dish, but then I realized he was not. So, I took the lamb dish very seriously leaving only bones.

I sat there, ate, drank and watched for nearly two hours. Who needs Sora Margherita? My meal was just wonderful. When I was finally done with my last dish, I asked for an espresso, which again, I drank with no sugar. This espresso was necessary after that meal and my long walk ahead. Since my waiter took kindly to me, he brought me a complimentary dessert, I did notice that no one else got one. Again, like yesterday, people came and went, while I sat there and enjoyed. La dolce vita.

Check please, a bit of conversation, and a couple Euro thrown the way of my waiter for his good service, a "Ciao" thrown in and I was off. The long, wonderful walk back home.

My judge is probably the most important person I will ever meet in my professional life. She taught me quite a bit. From her I learned: how to dress, how to never let a man dominate you in the workplace, and the first chance you get- you go to Italy. The last lesson is of particular importance to me now.

Time to go, room service is here with my espresso.